Stir-fried tatsoi with shiitake mushrooms

Last Updated on July 10, 2021 by Simon Fan

Following the footsteps of bok choy and gai lan, tatsoi, another iconic Chinese vegetable, has been gaining the attention of mainstream America.

It certainly has the look to seduce you. Its dark green spoon-shaped leaves and light green stalks form an attractive flattened rosette. Because of its unique look, it’s also called rosette bok choy or spoon mustard.

What’s giving tatsoi real star quality, however, is its flavor. The leaves are tender and sweet, and the stalks are creamy with a nutty undertone. Compared with bok choy, a close relative, its flavor is more robust and complex.

Part of the large Brassica family, which includes various cabbages and mustards, tatsoi (塌棵菜 or 塌菜) is indigenous to China and has been cultivated there for over 1,500 years. Because it can withstand frost, it’s a favorite vegetable in cool seasons. In fact, the cooler the weather when it’s harvested, the sweeter and creamier it tastes. Have you heard of the term “frost kissed”? Cabbages and bok choi are some of the other vegetables that love to be “frost kissed.”

When I was a kid, my grandmother would get so excited about cooking tatsoi when the temperature outside dropped. “It tastes better after frost has nipped it,” she would tell me. I still remember how wonderful her stir-fried tatsoi tasted, and am as excited as she was whenever tatsoi is in season…

In Chinese cooking, tatsoi is typically used in stir-fries or added to soups. You can also eat the young leaves raw, by mixing them with other vegetables to make mesclun salad.

Your best chance to find tatsoi is at your local farmers’ market or Chinese grocery stores. At Union Square Greenmarket, I’ve seen them at several vendors including Gorzynski Ornery Farm and Keith’s Farm.

“Our field is quite frosted right now,” Tim from Gorzynski Farm told me, as I was picking up this gorgeous tatsoi you see in the picture. Frost kissed!

Stir-fried tatsoi with shiitake mushrooms

Serves 2

Ingredients

3 medium dried shiitake mushrooms
½ cup (120 ml) water
2 heads tatsoi, about 4 oz (115 g)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon Shaoxing wine
Pinch of sugar
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
½ teaspoon sesame oil

Directions

1. Rehydrate the dried mushrooms in the ½ cup of water until softened, about 1 hour. Squeeze to remove excess water from the mushrooms. Remove the stems, and cut the caps into thin slices. Strain the soaking water and reserve.
2. Remove the cores of tatsoi and break into separate leaves. Rinse and drain well.
3. Place a wok or skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the tatsoi and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and wine, and toss for 20 seconds. Pour in the soaking water and cook, covered, for 1 minute. Add the sugar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle with the sesame oil and serve.