Last Updated on November 28, 2020 by Simon Fan
Salting, one of the world’s oldest forms of preserving food, has created a long list of culinary wonders, such as ham, bacalao, preserved lemon, bottarga, and, without doubt, salted duck egg.
When a raw duck egg is cured for 20 to 30 days either in a brine or in a paste made with salt and soil, its chemical composition is drastically changed—some of the proteins are broken down into amino acids, and fat content increases. While its white remains liquid, its yolk, the crown jewel of the finished product, becomes solid with a bright yellow-red color. When cooked, the yolk has an intriguing texture that’s at once creamy and granular. It tastes pleasantly salty and richly savory (umami).
Salted duck eggs have a long history in China and are made all over the country. The most prized ones come from Gaoyou in Jiangsu Province for their large, delicate, and rich yolks. In the US, you can find good-quality salted duck eggs either raw or cooked and vacuum-packed at Asian grocery stores.
There are many ways to use salted duck eggs. For example, you can simply hard-boil them and serve with congee. You can also stuff the yolks (symbolizing the moon) into mooncakes, which are eaten during the celebration of the Mid-Autumn Festival. Or wrap the yolks and pork into zongzi, a type of glutinous rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo or reed leaves. The best way to highlight the flavor of duck egg yolks, in my view, is to use them in a finishing sauce to enhance a vegetable dish, such as in stir-fried corn, pumpkin, or zucchini, or cook them with other umami-rich ingredients such as fish, crabs, or mushrooms to create a flavor explosion.
In the recipe below, I’m pairing them with king oyster mushrooms. When pan-seared until golden, these mushrooms are intriguing with their meaty texture, earthy aroma, and rich flavors. When coated with the glossy, fragrant salted yolks, they become truly sensational.
Pan-seared king oyster mushrooms with salted duck egg yolks
Serves 2
Ingredients
7 oz (200 g) king oyster mushrooms
Yolks of 2 hard-boiled duck eggs
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Directions
- Trim the ends of the mushrooms, and slice them lengthwise into ½-inch-thick (1.3 cm) slices. Cut each slice crosswise into approximately 2-inch (5 cm) lengths.
- On a cutting board, use the flat side of a knife to break down the yolks into a coarse paste, and then chop them finely.
- Place a skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the mushrooms in a single layer and sear until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer them to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.
- Reduce the heat to very low. Add the yolks to the skillet and stir-fry until they’re frothy with a sandy texture, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Return the mushrooms to the skillet and toss until they’re well coated with the yolks, about 30 seconds. Turn off the heat, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve right away.
