Last Updated on February 9, 2021 by Simon Fan
In the dazzling world of mollusks, razor clams do not get as much attention as they deserve. That’s good news for those of us who truly appreciate their charms and cannot seem to get enough of them.
In the US, there’re two main varieties of razor clams: the larger Pacific razor clam, and the smaller, narrower Atlantic variety, also known as Atlantic jackknife clam or bamboo clam.
As compared to other clams, razor clams taste brighter, cleaner, sweeter, and meatier. When cooked, their flesh becomes nicely crunchy instead of rubbery.
Because of their delicate nature, the best way to prepare them is to take a minimalist approach with brief cooking or no cooking and use very few ingredients and flavoring. Think crudo, ceviche, a la plancha, or stir-frying.
Razor clams are a favorite ingredient in Chinese cuisine. The most prized variety there is very similar to the Atlantic jackknife clam, and, interestingly, is also called bamboo clam (竹蛏). Chinese chefs often prepare them with a stir-frying technique called bao (爆). Compared with chao (炒), the common stir-frying method, bao requires higher heat, hotter oil, and quicker stirring and tossing. For delicate seafood and meat that benefit from quick cooking—such as squid, cuttlefish, clams, tenderloin, and chicken breast—bao is an ideal cooking method. The minimum use of seasonings in bao allows the natural flavors of the ingredients to shine.
While it’s hard to replicate the level of high heat in a home kitchen, we can still apply the bao technique by following the 3 principles: high heat, hot oil, and quick execution.
My recipe below is inspired by bao dishes from northern China where cilantro or scallion is often used to add a clean and refreshing aroma without overpowering the main ingredient.
Because razor clams live under the sand, they could get gritty. There’re two effective ways to clean them:
– Soak them for a few hours in cold salted water to remove the sand, or
– Dip them briefly in boiling water to loosen the shells, then rinse under cold water.
Stir-fried razor clams with cilantro
Serves 2
Ingredients
12 small Atlantic razor clams, about 18 oz (510 g)
1 bunch of cilantro, about 2 oz (60 g), or substitute sliced scallions
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
1 teaspoon ginger juice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Directions
- Dip the razor clams in boiling water until the shells are open, about 20 seconds. Rinse them under cold water. Remove the dark vein and stomach of each clam, then rinse again. Drain well and pat dry.
- Remove the leaves of the cilantro and reserve some for garnish. Trim the stems and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) lengths.
- In a small bowl, mix the salt with the wine and ginger juice until the salt is fully dissolved.
- Place a wok or skillet over high heat until very hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to give off a wisp of smoke, add the cilantro stems and garlic, and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the razor clams and wine mixture, and stir and toss rapidly until the clams are just cooked through, about 1 minute. Garnish with the cilantro leaves, and serve right away.
