Last Updated on March 13, 2021 by Simon Fan
Some of the most fantastic noodle dishes in the world are the minimalist, stripped-down ones.
A great example is the Roman pasta dish Cacio e Pepe, or “cheese and pepper” because it uses only the seasonings of cheese and black pepper. The rich umami and aroma from the Pecorino cheese, the heat and fragrance from the cracked black peppers, together with some olive oil, create a bold and rich flavor that makes the dish complex and intriguing.
The same is true with the scallion oil noodles, or cong you mian (葱油面) in Mandarin, from my hometown Shanghai.
Here, the scallion oil is prepared by frying the scallions slowly in low-temperature oil until they turn golden-brown and the oil is imbued with an irresistible aroma, which permeates your kitchen. When the noodles are tossed with soy sauce and the scallion oil, they are coated with a powerful flavor punch, a beautiful golden color, and a marvelous sheen. The fried scallions, served as a garnish to the dish, not only add a crisp texture but also an intriguing mix of smokiness, bitterness, and sweetness.
You’ll have leftover scallion oil from the recipe below. Keep it in a glass jar for another use. As a flavored oil, scallion oil is great with many savory dishes beyond the noodles.
Although I’ve had this simple and humble noodle dish countless times, every time I eat it, it always brings me excitement, joy, and nostalgia…
Shanghai scallion-oil noodles (上海葱油面)
Serves 2
Ingredients
1½ oz (45 g) scallions, preferably organic
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
8 oz (230 g) fresh noodles
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
½ teaspoon sugar
Freshly ground white pepper
Directions
- Cut the scallions into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over low heat. When the oil temperature reaches around 250°F (120°C), add the scallions. Maintaining the oil temperature at this level, fry the scallions until the scallion greens have taken on a deep green-brown color, and scallion white a golden-brown hue, about 10 minutes. Avoid overheating the oil or overcooking, which could burn the scallions and make them quite bitter. Transfer the scallions (you may need to do this piece by piece as each turns the desired color) to a plate lined with paper towels to drain and cool. They’ll turn crisp as they cool.
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until they’re just cooked through (al dente). Do not overcook. Transfer them to a colander to drain. If you would like to serve the noodles cold, rinse under cold water and drain well.
- To make the sauce, mix the dark soy sauces, light sauce soy sauce, sugar, and a few grinds of white pepper in a small bowl until well combined. In a large bowl, toss the noodles with the sauce. Add 2 tablespoons of the scallion oil and toss until every strand of the noodles is well coated. Garnish with the fried scallions and serve.
