Last Updated on September 21, 2021 by Simon Fan
Dairy products are rarely used in making savory dishes in Chinese cooking. So, without milk or cream, what’s the secret to making this Chinese-style fish soup look milky and taste creamy?
The answer lies in three words: gelatin, fat, and emulsion. As the fish cooks, gelatin-producing parts of the fish, especially the bones and skin, release the gelling substance to the soup. Rigorous boiling during the final stage of cooking breaks the oil into tiny drops that are stabilized by gelatin and create an amazing emulsion, giving the soup its signature creaminess and color.
Interestingly, bouillabaisse, the famous Provençal fish soup, uses the same technique and emulsion process. It does not look milky white mainly because of the saffron, an important ingredient in bouillabaisse that both colors and flavors the dish.
As compared to the French bouillabaisse, this Chinese fish soup uses minimal seasonings to highlight the natural flavors of the fish. For that reason, using fresh fish is key. Mild-flavored white fish, such as black sea bass or striped bass works well for this dish.
Once you have the right fish, you’re on your way to making a milky and tasty fish soup, with a little help from the following tips:
- Searing the fish first not only enhances the flavors of the soup but also keeps the fish in shape without breaking apart during cooking.
- Keeping the cooking liquid at a boil throughout cooking to maximize the release of gelatin.
- Lard is traditionally used for this dish and gives you the best results. That said, feel free to stick with vegetable oil if you like.
- Acid or salt decreases gelatin’s strength, so only season the soup at the last minute.
What if you follow these tips and your soup still doesn’t come out milky enough? Well, you could always “cheat” by adding a little milk.
Chinese-style milky fish soup
Serves 2 to 3
Ingredients
1 whole black sea bass, striped bass, or branzino, about 1⅕ lb (540 g), scaled and gutted
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, crushed
2 scallions, white and green parts separated and green parts cut diagonally into thin slices
1 teaspoon Shaoxing wine
2 cups (480 ml) water
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 oz (30 g) red bell pepper, cut into thin matchsticks
Directions
- Make 3 or 4 diagonal slashes on each side of the fish, and pat it completely dry with paper towels.
- Place a wok or skillet over high heat until hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the fish and sear until lightly golden on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the fish to a plate, leaving the oil in the wok. Add the ginger and scallion whites to the wok and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Splash in the wine and stir-fry for 15 seconds. Add the water and bring to a boil. Return the fish to the wok and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle boil. Cover and cook, turning the fish halfway through cooking, until the soup starts to turn white, about 8 minutes.
- Uncover and add the lard. Bring the liquid to a rolling boil and cook for a few minutes until the soup has become quite milky (as a result of the emulsion).
- Season with salt and a generous amount of ground white pepper. Garnish with the bell pepper and scallion greens, and serve right away.
