Celtuce ribbon salad

Last Updated on April 21, 2021 by Simon Fan

Like asparagus and peas, celtuce is another amazing vegetable that I eagerly anticipate and seek out when spring comes.

Originated in the Mediterranean region and brought to China during the Tang dynasty, celtuce is a popular vegetable in China, where it’s called wosun (莴笋). Here in the US, it’s also known as stem lettuce, asparagus lettuce, Chinese lettuce, or celery lettuce (hence the made-up word “celtuce”).

Although relatively unknown to most home cooks in the Western world, celtuce has become a darling of adventurous chefs and eaters. For example, French chef Yannick Alleno chose an exquisite celtuce dish for the cover of his cookbook 4 Seasons at Table No 5, Le Meurice. American chef Dan Barber, a pioneer of the farm-to-table movement, grows and serves celtuce at his restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns.

Why the fascination with celtuce? Because inside the deceptive woody skin of the stem lies its juicy and tender flesh with a beautiful jade-green color, mild and nutty flavor with a hint of lettuce, and crisp texture. In one word, divine!

In Chinese cooking, celtuce stems are often sliced and stir-fried with ingredients such as pork, eggs, or wood ear mushrooms. Or they’re eaten raw as a salad, which is a great way to enjoy this delicate vegetable.

If you can find celtuce at your local farmers’ market or Chinese grocery store, prepare it simply and minimally, as in my recipe below. You’ll be intrigued.

By the way, while the succulent stem is the main attraction of celtuce, its inner leaves are edible as well. Slightly bitter and a bit tougher than common lettuce leaves, celtuce leaves are great when simply stir-fried or added to soups.

Celtuce ribbon salad

Serves 2

Ingredients

1 medium celtuce, about 8 oz (230 g)
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white rice vinegar
½ teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

Directions

1. Remove the leaves from the stem and reserve for another use. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the woody skin of the stem as you would with broccoli stems to reveal its jade-green inner flesh.
2. Cut the peeled stem crosswise into two sections. Using a mandoline or vegetable peeler (a peeler with a serrated blade will work like a charm), slice each section into thin ribbons.
3. Add the celtuce ribbons to a bowl and mix in the salt. Let stand for 15 minutes or so to allow the salt to draw out some water and crisp them up.
4. Drain the liquid from the celtuce. Add the vinegar and sesame oil and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve.