Last Updated on March 13, 2021 by Simon Fan
In the West, soy products, such as tofu, are often considered as food for vegetarians or ingredients for vegetarian dishes.
That’s not the case in China or other Asian countries. Soyfoods in myriad shapes and forms are embraced by all walks of life, including hardcore carnivores. Their versatility means they can be culinary superstars in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.
When you cook soyfoods with meat or seafood, you have the opportunity to elevate the ingredients to a new level and create amazing dishes that manifest “the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.”
A perfect example is Mapo Tofu, arguably the most famous tofu dish in the world. Who would have thought that soft tofu and minced meat, with a little help from fermented soybeans, could be so irresistible when cooked together?
The dish I’m writing about here is in the same league.
Tofu sticks, called fu zhu (腐竹) in Mandarin, are made from thin layers of tofu skin (formed on the surface of heated soy milk) that are dried while hung vertically like sticks. You can find dried tofu sticks in Asian grocery stores. The firm and brittle sticks need to be reconstituted in water before cooking.
Although tofu sticks are fantastic in stir-fries, soups, and salads, my favorite way of cooking them is braising. During braising, they easily absorb the flavors from the braising liquid and become soft and luscious while retaining their shape and slightly chewy texture.
Braising tofu sticks with pork belly is a signature dish from Jiangxi Province of China, where the first tofu sticks were made over 1,000 years ago. By the way, Jiangxi produces the best porcelain in the country. The recipe below is quite straightforward. Pork belly is first braised with dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, star anise, and Chinese cinnamon. The tofu sticks are added at the last 10 to 15 minutes, during which the flavors meld and harmonize.
Braised pork belly with tofu sticks
Serves 2
Ingredients
2 oz (60 g) dried tofu sticks, rehydrated in water for about 1 hour
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
10 oz (285 g) pork belly, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) squares
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, sliced
2 scallions, white parts cut into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths and green parts thinly sliced
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon Zhenjiang (aka Chinkiang) vinegar
½ teaspoon sugar
2 whole star anise
1 small piece of cassia bark (about 2 x 1 inches/5 x 2.5 cm)
1 cup (240 ml) water
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Directions
- Remove the tofu sticks from the soaking water and gently squeeze out the liquid. Cut each stick into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths.
- Place a wok over medium heat until hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the pork belly and cook until all sides are lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the ginger and scallion whites, and stir-fry for 15 seconds. Splash in the wine, dark soy sauce, and vinegar. Stir and mix until the meat is well coated with the sauce, about 1 minute. Add the sugar, star anise, cassia bark, and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook until the meat is tender, about 40 minutes.
- Add the tofu sticks. Maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the tofu sticks are cooked through and fully flavored, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the meat and tofu sticks to a plate, and discard the ginger, scallions, and spices. Turn up the heat and reduce the braising liquid to about ½ cup (120 ml). Return the meat and tofu sticks to the liquid and cook briefly until hot through. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Serve garnished with the scallion greens.
