Last Updated on March 13, 2021 by Simon Fan
Yang Shuo (阳朔), one of the most beautiful old towns in China, is surrounded by limestone peaks and bordered on one side by the Li River (漓江). Taking a river cruise along the legendary river through the dreamy mountains is such a surreal experience that you feel like you’re in a space created by Chinese water paintings.
At night, this charming little town bursts into life, with the sky illuminated by lanterns and the air filled with hunger-inducing aromas. Several restaurants in town specialize in a dish called beer-braised fish, made with local fish freshly caught from the Li River. The braising liquid, a mixture of beer, dou ban jiang (豆瓣酱, chili paste with fermented fava beans), and fermented tofu (腐乳, also known as preserved tofu, or Chinese cheese), imparts a rich and complex flavor to the fish. The result is an amazing dish that will linger for a long time in your taste memory.
Ever since I had that dish during my visit to Yang Shuo several years ago, I’ve tried and succeeded in recreating it at home. Fish from the Li River is obviously out of the question, but I find any mild-flavored fish, such as striped bass or porgy, works well for the dish. I’ve also experimented with a variety of beers from different countries, and each of them brings its unique aroma and taste to the dish, making the dish tastes slightly different and always delicious each time.
You can pretty much use any beer that you like to drink, as long as it’s not too bitter or it could overpower the delicate fish.
If you cannot find dou ban jiang or fermented tofu, substitute any Chinese chili paste you have for the former and Korean doenjang or Japanese miso for the latter.
Beer-braised fish, Yang Shuo style (阳朔啤酒鱼)
Serves 2
Ingredients
1 whole striped bass or another white fish (such as branzino or porgy), about 1⅕ lb (540 g), scaled and gutted
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
3 to 4 dried chili peppers, cut in half and seeds removed
12 oz (355 ml) beer of your choice
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon dou ban jiang (chili paste with fermented fava beans) or another Chinese chili paste
1 teaspoon fermented tofu, or substitute soybean paste (such as Chinese huangjiang, Korean doenjang, or Japanese miso)
6 oz (170 g) green bell pepper, cut into bite-size pieces
10 oz (285 g) tomatoes, cut into ½-inch (1.3 cm) cubes
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Directions
- Pat the fish dry with paper towels. Place a wok or skillet over high heat until hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the fish and sear both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the fish to a plate.
- Lower the heat to medium. Add the ginger, garlic, and chili peppers to the wok with the remaining oil. Stir fry for 1 minute, then pour in the beer and bring to a boil. Mix in the soy sauce, dou ban jiang, and fermented tofu. Return the fish to the wok and add the bell pepper. Simmer uncovered, carefully turning the fish once halfway through cooking, until the fish is just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer until they’ve softened and the braising liquid has thickened, about 2 minutes.
- Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve garnished with the scallions.
