Stir-fried green soybeans with heirloom tomatoes and chicken

Last Updated on October 9, 2020 by Simon Fan

Fresh green soybeans, if you’re lucky enough to find them, are a real treat in late summer and early fall, just like the buttery and aromatic fresh fava beans in spring and the sweet, succulent peas in summer.

While frozen green soybeans have become easily available in the US, fresh ones in the pod are still somewhat elusive, even when they‘re in season.

My search for fresh green soybeans would usually begin in late August when they’re ready to be harvested at a fresh green stage, which is at about eighty percent maturity. I’ve spotted them at farmer’s markets, Asian markets, and sometimes at Whole Foods.

It’s worth the effort to seek them out because the fresh soybeans in season taste wonderfully sweet and tender, with a lovely snap when you bite into them. By comparison, frozen beans do not have the same brightness either in flavor or texture.

Green soybeans are called mao dou (毛豆) in Mandarin, meaning “hairy beans.” In China, they’re ubiquitous from July through October and are consumed as a summer legume. A versatile ingredient, they can be simply boiled in salted water, added to braises or soups, or stir-fried with sliced meat, chicken, eggs, pressed tofu, or pickled mustard greens.

To truly appreciate the flavor and texture of fresh soybeans in season, the best way to prepare them is to cook minimally with a quick stir-frying, as I do in the recipe below. I’m pairing them with heirloom tomatoes. Together with chicken, they create a bright and clean dish with savory (umami), sweet, and sour flavors. All you need to add is salt.

This dish captures the essence of Chinese home-style dishes, or jia chang cai (家常菜) in Mandarin: use what’s in season and cook simply.

Stir-fried green soybeans with heirloom tomatoes and chicken

Serves 2

Ingredients

7 oz (200 g) chicken thigh or breast meat, cut into ½-inch (1.3 cm) cubes
1 teaspoon Shaoxing wine
1 teaspoon potato starch or cornstarch
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 oz (170 g) shelled green soybeans
2 scallions, thinly sliced
7 oz (200 g) heirloom tomatoes (preferably of mixed colors), cut into ½-inch (1.3 cm) cubes
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Directions

1. In a bowl, mix the chicken with the wine and potato starch. Let marinate for 15 minutes.
2. Place a wok or skillet over medium heat until hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the chicken and stir-fry until it turns opaque, about 1 minute. Transfer the chicken to a plate and keep the remaining oil in the wok.
3. Heat the oil over high heat until shimmering. Add the soybeans and scallions, and stir-fry for 1½ minutes. Return the chicken to the wok, and continue to stir-fry for 30 seconds. Next, add the tomatoes and stir gently until warmed through, about 30 seconds. Do not overcook or the tomatoes will break down quickly. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve right away.