Last Updated on April 11, 2021 by Simon Fan
I love the time-honored tradition of cooking food wrapped in aromatic leaves, bark, or other natural materials. The wrappers impart their subtle fragrance to the food and keep the food’s juices and flavors inside. They’re also perfect vessels for carrying and serving food.
Many cultures have created culinary wonders with this ancient tradition—stuffed grape leaves as dolmas in Turkey and Greece, tamales wrapped in corn husks in Mexico, and coconut glutinous rice in banana leaves called khao dome in Thailand and Laos, just to name a few.
Among the many Chinese delicacies prepared and cooked in wrappers, zongzi is probably the most popular in China, with numerous regional variations. Zongzi is made with glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo leaves or reed leaves. It can be either savory or sweet depending on what ingredients are mixed with the glutinous rice.
Outside China, glutinous rice with chicken in lotus leaves, or lo mai gai in Cantonese, is probably the most well-known dish of this kind, and always a favorite at dim sum restaurants. If you’re a fan of the dish, the recipe below will show you how to create a wonderful dim sum experience at home. I’ve tweaked the classic recipe with a seasonal touch, by including fava beans in the filling. The smooth and creamy texture of fava beans works in great harmony with the soft and sticky rice. Their distinct aroma is accentuated when wrapped and steamed in the parcel.
In China, fava beans are available and consumed in abundance during early summer. Finding these lovely beans in the US could be a challenge, but still possible if you’re curious and determined enough. In New York, I’ve spotted fresh ones in the pod at farmers’ markets and a few specialty grocery stores. If you can’t find them, use frozen fava beans or substitute other beans such as green soybeans (edamame) or lima beans.
My recipe uses frozen banana leaves instead of dried lotus leaves because they’re more easily available at Asian grocery stores (look for them in the freezer section) and are easier to cut into rectangular wrappers. If you use dried lotus leaves, rehydrate them in cold water for about 2 hours.
Glutinous rice with chicken
Makes 4 parcels
Ingredients
8 oz (225 g) glutinous rice, soaked in cold water for 8 hours in the refrigerator or in warm water for 2 hours
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons water
Marinade
1 teaspoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon grated ginger
½ teaspoon Shaoxing wine
½ teaspoon potato starch or cornstarch
5 oz (140 g) boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, cut into ½-inch (1.3 cm) cubes
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, minced
2 oz (60 g) shelled fava beans, from about 8 oz (230 g) fresh fava beans in the pod
2 Chinese sausages, quartered lengthwise and cut into ½-inch (1.3 cm) pieces.
⅛ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground white pepper
1 scallion, thinly sliced
Banana leaves, cut into 4 rectangles about 12 x 10 inches (30 x 25 cm)
Directions
- Drain the soaked rice. Spread the rice in a steamer lined with cheesecloth and steam over high heat until the rice is cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes.
- Transfer the rice to a large bowl and gently fluff with a pair of chopsticks or a fork. In a separate bowl, combine the soy sauce and water. Pour the mixture into the rice, and stir to mix well. Cover with plastic wrap.
- In a bowl, mix all the ingredients for the marinade. Add the chicken and stir to coat. Let marinate for 10 minutes.
- Place a wok or skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then swirl in the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chicken and continue to stir-fry for 1 minute. Next, add the fava beans and sausages, and stir and toss until the chicken is just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.
- To make the parcels, divided the rice into 4 equal portions. Lay a piece of banana leaf on a work surface. Place one portion of the glutinous rice in the center of the leaf, and form into a rectangular shape about 4 x 3 inches (10 x 8 cm). Spread a quarter of the chicken mixture over the rice, and sprinkle with some scallion slices on top. Bring in the 4 sides of the leaf to form a parcel, and secure with kitchen twine. Repeat with the remaining leaves, rice, and chicken mixture.
- Steam the parcels over high heat until the rice is very soft, about 30 minutes. Serve right away. If you like, drizzle a few drops of chili sauce to add a kick.
